Design and evaluation of adaptive clothing for diverse body shapes using auxetic knitted structures

Traditional ready-to-wear garments can mostly not conform to different body shapes because of the adoption of the generic sizing system, which leads to the local strain of concentration and morphological misfit. Auxetic structures, which have a negative Poisson’s ratio, permit enhanced redistribution of stress and geometry and allow deformation. Two auxetic knitted structures were developed by using 100% polyester and 100% nylon yarns with a fabric density of 41 Wales and 40 courses per inch. Characterization of the initial fabrics involved checking the behavior of negative Poisson’s ratio (NPR) where the polyester line (P1) structure shows the highest auxeticity, with a NPR of approximately −0.4 and peak strain reductions of 80–90%, as well as air permeability, moisture management, bend test, compression, roughness, friction properties and stiffness tests to check the mechanical and comfort-related performances. The standardized tunic garment was modeled in CLO 3D on three female body shapes—hourglass, pear and rectangle—with a constant size of 34. The fit map showed a strain of 91.49% in auxetic and 509.75% in single-jersey fabric at the hip area of the pear body shape when measuring fabric and body interaction. The findings indicate lower peak strain levels, which ascertain that increased adaptability is possible and support its use in the development of adaptive ready-to-wear garments.